Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
